The Recoleta cemetery is full of elaborately carved scroll-work and stately pillars that only reach up to your shoulder because all the structures are weirdly mini; it’s more magical than macabre. The burial site of Argentina’s most famous figures, including Evita herself. It is the light that makes the difference. The light that, through the windows and glass mosaics of the mausoleums, creates the reflections, the little stories that depend on arbitrary times of the day, helps to make this last resting place for 350,000 deceased Argentines a magical place.